São Vicente

São Vicente is a small town on Madeira's north coast, in a deep green valley that runs down to the sea. The north side of the island is cooler, wetter and much quieter than Funchal and the south, with steep mountains dropping straight into the Atlantic. It is also the side that faces the winter swells.

The wave

Fajã da Areia, on the coast at São Vicente, is the spot that made the municipality known for surfing. Lefts and rights break over a mix of sand, rocks and boulders, and the shape changes as the bottom settles. Madeira's tourism board calls it one of the most consistent spots in the archipelago; at least one forecasting site is less generous, so check the forecast before you drive over the mountains.

Who it is for

Intermediate and advanced surfers, with easier waves on some days. Watch for submerged rocks. It is still quiet, so there is room in the water. Like most of Madeira, it is not a place to learn: the island's sand-bottom option for beginners is Machico, on the east coast.

When to go

Autumn and winter, when N to NW swells hit the north coast. A S or SW wind blows offshore here, and mid tide is usually best. Summer is usually small on this side.

Water and gear

Madeira's water is warmer than the mainland's all year. Bring booties for the rocky entries and exits.

Getting there

São Vicente is about 35 km from Funchal by the VE4 expressway, which tunnels through the mountains in the middle of the island. Allow around 45 minutes, more in traffic. You need a car on Madeira to follow the swell from coast to coast.